Michigan sits in the heart of the Great Lakes, one of America’s most interesting and in my opinion underappreciated natural wonders. By area, the Great Lakes are the largest group of freshwater lakes on Earth and contain 21% of the world’s surface freshwater. The lakes are all connected, and if you follow the smaller lakes and rivers that drain them, eventually you’ll reach the Atlantic Ocean.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Michiganders love to use their hands as maps to show where they’re from. Hold up your left hand, and make a mitten-type shape with your palm facing away from you. Congratulations, you just created a map of the lower peninsula. This tour takes us along the outside of your hand, on the pinky-finger side.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Coming up ahead is Portage Lake, a perfect encapsulation of the blessings and curses of lumber in Michigan’s history. The timber industry was booming in the mid-1800s, and lumber mills popped up in small settlements all along Lake Michigan’s coast. Trees made their way to mills for processing and were then shipped to cities via the Great Lakes. One of these sawmills was on Porter Lake.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

In about a mile, we will arrive at the Arcadia Marsh Nature Preserve, one of only 15 remaining coastal marshes along Lake Michigan’s Lower Peninsula shoreline. Bird, butterfly, and botanical lovers will delight in this stop, where you can walk through the marsh on a dry and elevated boardwalk. It’s free to enter, but dogs are not allowed. The turn is a little easy to miss so I’ll be sure to point it out as we get closer.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Crystal Lake was originally a bay on Lake Michigan before sand dunes closed it off around 2,000 years ago. Not to be deterred by a little geology, Archibald Jones, an entrepreneur and founder of the Benzie County River Improvement Company, wanted to remove the sands between Crystal Lake and Lake Michigan.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

This 2-mile hike will take you through shady and green-filled woods on your way to the golden, sandy beach along Lake Michigan. If you want to get to the beach, you’ll have to descend some wooden stairs.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

If you’re in search of a beach stop, Continue straight on Forest Avenue until you hit the water. There’s a small parking lot for Frankfort Public Beach, which is a nice stretch of sand along Lake Michigan. There’s also the picturesque Frankfort lighthouse and pier just offshore.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

one of the most photographed lighthouses in Michigan and it’s surrounded by a particularly nice stretch of sandy beach. Visitors are welcome to tour the grounds and guided tours are offered Memorial Day weekend through late October for a small fee.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

One of the top highlights of M22 is Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. I’m guessing it is one of the reasons you’ve decided to drive this stretch of scenic road so I’m going to fill you in on some of its details before we arrive.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Keep a lookout for a small sign marking the turn for Old Indian Trail. This National Park trail has two, roughly 2.5-mile loops that follow a portion of a path that early Native Americans established between their camp and fishing sites. It’s a nice option for folks who are looking for a quieter hike or if you have several days in the area.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Alright, you’re coming up on the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center and as I said earlier, I highly recommend starting your exploration of Sleeping Bear Dunes here. turn right onto West Front Street – that’s the next street. Then look for the bluish building and park signs on our left. The visitor center is hard to miss.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

The Empire State was one of the largest and fastest steamer ships of its day, with 40-foot paddle wheels slicing through the water. It was launched in 1848 and carried passengers in luxury from Chicago northward, to destinations along the Great Lakes.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Coming up is one of the biggest draws at Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore–the Dune climb. The nearly 300-ft dune is steep and one of the few places in the park where climbing on dunes is encouraged. There’s plenty of parking and you’ll see the towering sand right away. You won’t miss the sign.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Coming up quickly is an interesting side trip – the Alligator Hill hike. This somewhat gentle uphill trail leads to the Islands Lookout where on a clear day you can see all the way out to the Manitou Islands. The hike to the lookout is about 3 miles roundtrip.

5 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Tourism was big in the early 1900s and still is today. Glen Arbor has quite a few art galleries, several wine and cider tasting rooms, and cafes, and it’s a lovely spot to spend the night if you’re not in a hurry to continue along the lakeshore.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

I’ve mentioned the Manitou Islands a couple of times now, so let me fill us in on some more details on these Lake Michigan gems. Both islands are officially part of Sleeping Bear Lakeshore and are largely uninhabited.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

First is the turn for Port Oneida Beach and Pyramid Point. Pyramid Point offers one of the most gorgeous views of Lake Michigan. It’s about a three-mile hike from the trailhead and totally worth it for the panoramic views of the lake.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

I talked a bit about the Manitou Islands earlier on our tour but have yet to chat much about the waterway separating the islands from mainland Michigan – the Manitou Passage. Well, in the mid-1800s to early 1900s, maritime trade was booming and the waters of Lake Michigan were teeming with ships carrying goods.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

About a mile ahead is a turnoff for Good Harbor Beach, on your left hand side. The beach is a lovely place for a stroll, swim, or viewing the sunset. If you swim, be wary of waves and rip current– there’s no lifeguards, so use caution.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Leelanau peninsula and county was named by Henry Schoolcraft, who served as Michigan’s Indian agent in the 1820s, acting as a go-between with the US government and Native American tribes. When he was assigned to live in Sault Ste. Marie, he met his wife Jane Johnston.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

You are approaching the town of Leland, and a stroll through the town’s historic Fishtown is a must-do. Leland is built on the site of one of the oldest Ottawa villages in the Great Lakes region. The spot where the Leland River flows into Lake Michigan provided a natural fish ladder so it’s always been a popular fishing ground.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

The Manitou Islands are only two of the many islands that grace Lake Michigan’s waters. The largest is Beaver Island located north of the Leelanau Peninsula. It has quite an interesting history including a stint as a self-proclaimed theocratic monarchy.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

You are approaching Northport, a village on Grand Traverse Bay that has quite an interesting history. Northport was settled back in the mid-1800s after a state-wide epidemic of smallpox hastened a mass scattering of settlers.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

A man named Philo Beers was the 2nd lighthouse keeper, after taking the job from David Moon, who only lasted about 8 months before calling it quits. The lighthouse life isn’t for everyone.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

In a few moments, you will be passing through a portion of the Grand Traverse Indian Reservation. As you can see, it’s just south of the original settlement at Omena led by Reverend Dougherty. Later, a different group of Odawa people moved in to what was called Eagle Town but was renamed, and continues to be called Peshawbestown after their Chief, Peshaba.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Ahead is the town of Suttons Bay. As the name implies, the town was named after a person, Harry C Sutton, who founded the port in 1854. Originally the town was called Suttonsburg, and it was considered a “gas station” stop for steamer ships. Cordwood was loaded onto ships that burned wood to heat their boilers.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

Alright, you are approaching Traverse City, a city that sits at the head of the East and West arms of Grand Traverse Bay, and let me tell you there is a lot to see and do here. Hopefully, you’re planning on staying for a few days and maybe you’re using it as a basecamp to explore Sleeping Bear Dunes and the rest of the Leelanau Peninsula.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free

The museum also hosts a wide-array of visiting and rotating exhibits. Past temporary exhibits included glass artist Dale Chihuly, Mathias J. Alten, Orna Ben-Ami who was the first female military correspondent for Army Radio, Andy Warhol, and the traveling Bodies Human exhibit.

10 minutes • Admission Ticket Free